Oscar Fashion Flashback: Stylist Phillip Bloch on Night He Dressed 13 Guests
S E E D E D C O N T E N T
When then-ingenue Uma Thurman made her Oscar debut in 1995 styled by Barbara Tfank in a lilac Prada dress with an ethereal chiffon wrap, it shifted culture. "You know when you eat a bad burrito and you get that rumble?" asks Phillip Bloch, catching himself ever so slightly as he makes the comparison. "I hate to compare that Prada dress to this, but it was the gas that got it all moving. This moment triggered something." Thurman's look is oft-referred to as the moment that truly sparked fashion's lucrative love affair with Hollywood, a mutually beneficial relationship that forever changed the red carpet game.
Phillip Bloch in 1996.
Few know that better than Bloch, a former model who segued into styling magazine editorials in New York. But an encounter (or lack thereof) with a supermodel led him to change course. "I was working on a shoot, and Naomi Campbell didn't show up three different times," recalls Bloch. "I said, 'Fuck this, if I'm going to run around like crazy, I'm going to do it for people that I really admire.' Not that I don't admire Naomi, but I had come from being a model, and I showed up on time." He moved to L.A. and landed his first styling job on River Phoenix's final photo shoot before his death in 1993. Bloch's career not only took off, it crescendoed when he styled 13 A-listers for the 69th Academy Awards in 1997.
Compared with today's expertly manicured, heavily sponsored and social-media-friendly fashion set, Bloch's memories of that Oscar week seem unfathomable. Clad in tank tops and baggie shorts ("I was a homeboy then"), Bloch raced to and fro for pickups and fittings in a Dodge Dakota convertible with couture dresses, accessories and high-end jewelry packed in the back with a tunnel cover draped over. "In those times, you didn't need guards and I was carrying around millions and millions of dollars worth of jewelry with no security, no permission slips, nothing. Just like, 'Here you go.'"
Looking back on what he accomplished on that night in collaboration with the high-wattage stars, all of whom he still admires and many he is still close with, Bloch is overwhelmed by a rumble from another place —his heart. As the tears start to fall, he says, "I take great pride in being the Forrest Gump of fashion and having helped usher in a different era in Hollywood. I didn't do it for the money, I did it because I loved it and loved them," says Bloch, who has a podcast True Crime: Fashion and Passion with Carol Alt and Pat Cleveland and is prepping to launch two fashion labels. "It's about legacy; one thing always leads to another, and I have to say that all of these looks still work today — except Will's fucking suit."
01
Fran Drescher
PHOTO : KMAZUR/WIREIMAGE
Fran Drescher (left, with Salma Hayek) was dressed for the Oscars in 1997 by Phillip Bloch in a botanical print Badgley Mischka dress. “This was Fran’s first time going to the Oscars,” he says. “She wanted something sexy and didn’t want it to look like The Nanny . It had to be chic, and when we saw this, it was sexy and it screamed and whispered at the same time.” Adds the actress: “It’s sexy without being slutty — and that is very important to me because some stylists will try to put you in something that is ‘this year’s trend’ but next year will be ‘last year’s mistake.’ “
02
Luis Miguel and Salma Hayek
Clients Luis Miguel and Hayek wore Armani. “Sometimes the simplest thing can be the best,” says Bloch of the actress’ beaded tank top dress. But while Hayek loved his plan to pair it with a Fred Leighton tiara, her team resisted the idea, at least until the stylist faxed over photos of Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn also wearing tiaras. “Her makeup artist came up with the blue eyeshadow idea. When I first saw it, I got worried that we would be ridiculed, but it was such a hit. It was the thing that made it cool. By the time Salma got home that night, Mick Jagger had called and left a message on her answer machine: ‘Hey, baby.’ “
03
Lauren Holly and Jim Carrey
Lauren Holly dressed in Valentino and Jim Carrey in Richard Tyler with a Martin Katz lapel pin. “Lauren was my Marilyn Monroe that year,” says Bloch. “Richard Tyler made that suit for Jim, and it fit like a glove.” Holly tells THR that she loved working with Bloch because he never tried “to make you into somebody else. I felt like Lauren, as pretty as I could be.”
04
Jada Pinkett Smith and Will Smith
Jada Pinkett Smith and Will Smith donned custom Versace. “If Jada wore this to the Oscars this year, people would say, ‘Wow.’ It’s still so iconic,” says Bloch, who paired the actress’ dress with a Neil Lane diamond belly chain. He recalls Jada telling him: “I don’t want to look like I’m wearing my mother’s dress. I want to show my body and want something that stands out.”
05
Courtney B. Vance and Angela Bassett
Clients Courtney B. Vance, in Armani, and Angela Bassett, in custom Escada and Martin Katz jewelry (with Frances McDormand, center). “White was not something people wore to the Oscars because it was so bridal, but I thought it was regal,” says Bloch. “I saw Courtney as a James Bond gentleman, and their looks delivered new Hollywood glamour. Grace Kelly was my inspiration, with more cleavage and body. Look how gorgeous she is!”
06
Sandra Bullock
Sandra Bullock in Richard Tyler. The actress was supposed to wear a dress by Alberta Ferretti, but when it arrived two days before the Oscars, it was “2 inches short,” says Bloch, who scrambled to secure Tyler’s hand-beaded gown, her first choice. “Very bohemian princess,” he says, “which worked for Sandy because she didn’t care about fashion.”
07
Faye Dunaway
Faye Dunaway in Armani with Harry Winston jewelry. “Everything including the shoes [and wrap] was dyed to match,” says Bloch, adding, “I mean, Naomi Campbell ain’t got nothing on Ms. Dunaway, who would throw things across the room. God bless her, but she was Mommie Dearest and was rough. I love, love, love her.”
08
Jennifer Lopez
Jennifer Lopez, in Badgley Mischka, with then-husband Ojani Noa. “We were going for a very Rita Hayworth/Ava Gardner vibe. I love that neckline,” says Bloch. “J.Lo may laugh at this, but she had a size 8 butt that would fit in a size 0 or 2 sample. J.Lo’s butt was a huge topic of conversation in those days, and getting that butt into a size 2 dress, she just knew how to do it. I mean, look at her body in that dress! Just stunning.”
This story first appeared in the March 23 issue of The Hollywood Reporter magazine.
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So on the eve of the Academy Awards, I wanted to get us all in the mood. Also, Phil is one of my dearest friends from my childhood.
The bad news is that I might review the event and we all know how horrible some of the most recent have been.
some? almost all of your reviews are horrible...
As are all your comments.
my fashion sense is a polo shirt, levis or shorts, nikes, all 4 seasons...
Should be a lot of yellow lowers and blue uppers. Seeing as I only wear black, think I'll watch the recap version of the recap version.
Today appears to be fashion day. I just posted an article about Audrey Hepburn's fashions.
I guess if I wanted anyone to bother looking at it I should have entitled it differently, how about...
Donald Trump Grabs Audrey Hepburn's Pussy
(and all it said was meeow)
or
Audrey Hepburn Raises Ukrainian Spirits
(in a toast to Zelenskyy)
or
China Forces Audrey Hepburn to Pick Cotton in Xinjiang
(even though she preferred the silk one)
By my calculations it took you about two hours longer than Vic to go all angry and negative on Perrie's upper article. Vic's contributions were short and snappy butt you put a lot more artistry into yours. Should we now take a vote?
Who Won?
Buzz, you just sound bitter, and people , especially strangers, dont respond well to that.
I have had MANY seeds and even self written articles that have got no replies.
I love Audrey Hepburn and I think I have seen most of her movies, but I'm not sure I would have a lot to say about her.
Social media, where everything is "now" has really squeezed public discourse about almost everything into niches and genres. There are probably websites where people talk about Audrey Hepburn all the time, and old movies , and old music etc. But most people today want to talk about today . The internet has done that.
This story would almost make you think that Oscar fashion was not a thing until the late 1990's.
===============================================================
John you may have inadvertently made a point there about glamour, and for those who don't get it, it was mostly a thing before the 90's.
Take a gander at the 2020 Winners Brad Pitt and Rene Zellweger and allow me to disagree!
I'm going to disagree, Vic. My friend made a whole career out of glamour, and he did it in the 90's and for years after that. He would look to the past to inspire him.
Total glam!
Buzz's femme fatale, Audrey, could make a potato sack look glamorous.
Certainly Hollywood is glamorous today, and we will see that tonight. I think its cool that your friend played such a big part in that.
"Back in the day" though, I think the public perception of Hollywood was that it was more glamorous than what we see today. Its not because of the quality of dress designs, but because in the 60's and 70's (and before) , movie stars were hardly ever seen outside of a glamorous context. Every time they met the press they were dressed up. There were no paparazzi to the extent that movie stars were photographed going to the grocery store in their sweatpants and then the photos put all over the internet. Movie stars were kind of inherently glamorous in those days. I dont think that is the case anymore.
You can disagree. It's just my assessment of the boomers.
They hadn't discovered "jeans for all occasions' yet.
The majority of these people are not boomers, and this was to be a pleasant diversion.
Bellbottom Jeans? Boomers are aged 56 to 77!
their predecessors are mostly a social and cultural liability now.
I got caught out in the field without a necktie on in '97. it was company policy on all sales calls, but I hated sweating in the summer. the sales manager threatened to fire me over it. I told him to go ahead. the owners wouldn't let him. haven't worn one since. then I ditched the wingtips and tasseled loafers for nikes. nobody said a word.
I am retired but my longtime employers are headquartered in Japan and they are still sticklers for presenting a professional image. Coats and ties are still required at any corporate office and all corporate events. Business casual is "allowed" outside of that but that still means no jeans, no sneakers, no shorts and no shirts without collars, for men.
Women can wear pretty much anything they want though hose are required with dresses and no cleavage is supposed to be showing.
Haven’t watched this ego stroker for the out of touch for some time now.
Don’t miss it a bit.
Sparty, this was really about fashion, but whatever.
For the Oscars but whatever .....
Some people have a bug up their ass about "Hollywood liberals" and dont know any other approach to a topic like this except to complain about the place.
Sorry John, that isn’t a real thing.
Just see Comment 4.1.4 if you don't believe it.
The truth Sparty denied that you confirmed?
That truth? Sheesh!
Nah, not when using the JR “that’s not a real thing” gambit.
It fits by that standard ..... snuggly .....
Your friend did a wonderful job. I do have to agree with him about Will Smith's suit - not a fan. And I know it was her makeup artist's idea, but I'm on the fence about Salma Hayek's blue eyeshadow.
I loved Fran Drescher's and Sandra Bullock's looks.
And Faye Dunaway is old Hollywood brought back to life. I don't remember seeing her with her hair dark any time other than this, and she rocked that look. It takes a lot of confidence to wear that red and own it. She made it look easy.
I don't understand hiring a stylist and then not listening to them. I have to say, that Phil has a total understanding of glam.
He also has an amazing gift of making everyday clothing look amazing. He just has great vision.
Another one I loved - Jim Carey. The eggplant shirt and pocket square made him stand out in a good way. Not a boring white tux shirt, but still very classy.
I'm definitely no fashionista, but he does have a gift. compared to a lot of stuff that ends up on the red carpet, he could be considered down right conservative these days.
being uncomfortable in order to look nice is for the birds. I've worn a tux once in my life and never again. those tux rental shoes are the same shoes as stiffs laying in caskets wear. F that.
I usually wear my good crocodiles for most formal occasions although I must choose between two tuxes or my dinner jacket...
Maybe I am odd but when it all fits it is plenty comfortable. If it is cold outside I top that off with my opera cape. Always a nice flourish...
I totally agree with you. He makes people look wonderful and not like a sideshow.
Sounds to me like you have style!! Good for you!
Details like nice studs and cufflinks, a long silk scarf and a pocket square finish off my look...
Never worn a clip-on bow tie or cummerbund!
You are for sure styling it!
All you have gotta do to get onto invite lists is be a dependable sucker, always bring a check book and compliment your host and hostess.
Most all formal dress affairs are fund raisers.
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