Is Grilling Season Real, Or A Media Creation?
S E E D E D C O N T E N T
Either way, here's my wine pairing guide for grilled meat and fish lovers.
Jason WilsonMay 10, 202424Share this postCopy linkFacebookEmailNoteOther4ShareIllustrations by Sara Keene
This article first appeared in The New Wine Review. Readers of Everyday Drinking can claim their subscription to NWR, by using the links and welcome codes found at the top of this email.
One of food media's most cherished tropes is "grilling season."
This is, presumably, the season when the weather starts to warm, and readers liberate their grills from the depths of cold winter storage to fire them up en masse. We start seeing these articles in April, though sometimes a bit earlier, depending on when the news gap after Easter and Passover falls. It usually begins with annual grill reviews and tips on, say, best barbecue sauces, then moves on to recipes for "unusual" things to grill (Have you ever grilled a vegetable!? Or a peach!? Maybe you should!). By Memorial Day, there's a full slate of stories about how to clean your grill and a shoutout to plant-based grilling options, and by the lead-up to July Fourth, we get features about safety, on the dangers of cooking with fire, and of undercooked meat.
At some point during this season, we'll get the annual articles on what wines to pair with the food you grill. This is where we generally hear about how well barbecue pairs with California zinfandel, or matching Argentine malbec with steak.
For many of us who love grilling, the whole idea of "grilling season" feels a little imaginary. It presumes a readership consisting only of those in northern climes where winter temperatures hypothetically discourage grilling. Moreover, committed grillers do not pay too much attention to the weather. I'll grill in a snowstorm if the spirit moves me. I take both grilling and wine seriously regardless of the season.
Still, what follows is my first ever Wine Guide For Grilling Season, in which I'll suggest two wines for each category of grilled meat.
Apologies to my readers who don't eat meat. I love you and I usually take better care of you. You may want to stop reading and click on this link to a lovely grilled eggplant recipe, which pairs with carignan:
Who Loves the Lowly Eggplant? Carignan Does.
·August 9, 2022
PORK
Usually the rote, one-size-fits-all advice for grilled pork is zinfandel. But given the alcohol levels of California zin these days, I'm not so sure. I certainly don't want a red wine with over 15 percent abv clubbing my palate along with some spicy pork, on a warm sunny afternoon. (And if you do, that's wonderful! You don't even need to keep reading this section!)
Barbecued pork can be many things, but most importantly: Does your pork recipe lean more sweet or spicy?
If it's more spicy or savory, I'd skip red altogether and go with something like a dry German Riesling, something from Rheinhessen or Pfalz. First of all, we will remind you: yes, Riesling can be dry. Look for the word trocken (dry) on the label. One Rheinhessen producer whose dry wines I love, Knewitz, is now newly imported into the U.S. The 2022 Knewitz Riesling Trocken ($20) is a thrilling balance of stone fruit, fresh herbs, and minerality, with electric acidity and crisp finish—and it's a steal at under $20. If you want to level up, look for 2022 Knewitz Appenheim Riesling Trocken ($24), Knewitz's village wine.
Now, I know a certain percentage of people will never follow my advice for German Riesling. That's fine. For ride-or-die red-wine drinkers, I suggest a Syrah from the northern Rhone—especially if your barbecue pork recipe veers toward sweet and spice. One of my go-to northern Rhones is 2020 Saint Cosme Crozes-Hermitage ($41), made from an ancient clone of Syrah called Serine. It may not have the pedigree of Cote-Rotie or Hermitage, but this Saint Cosme punches above its weight at half the price. With its whirling flavors and aromas of smoked meat, black pepper, incense, and wild berry, this is a perfect way to upscale any barbecue.
CHICKEN
As with pork, there are endless grilled chicken variations, so we must talk in broad strokes. First, is your chicken recipe more herbal, or is it spicy? If it leans more herbal, pair it with one of the excellent Sancerre I recommended a few weeks ago. Perhaps the racy and expressive2022 Domaine Delaporte Chavignol Sancerre ($35) with notes of flowers and herbs, and an explosion of warm citrus, kiwi, and a smoky, chalky finish. Or perhaps the 2022 Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre ($40), a bright, pretty sauvignon blanc with a nose full of fresh tarragon and dill, waxy and flinty, with grapefruit, lime, spice, and a salty finish.
With a slightly spicier chicken recipe I'm going a little off the beaten path to recommend a very unique light-bodied red wine from Andalusia, by Raul Moreno, a winemaker who I highlighted in my report on New Spain. This wine, 2022 Raul Moreno Dark n' Stormy ($41), is made from 100 percent tintilla (a native grape related to graciano). Served slightly chilled, it's cool and mineral, meaty and savory, reminiscent of a light-bodied Loire cabernet franc.
FISH
There are so many different kinds of fish to grill. Let's split them into oily fish, like salmon or mackerel, and white fish, such as halibut, flounder, or sea bass.
For oily fish, I love a full-bodied white wine like a classic White Rioja. You can't go wrong with 2021 Conde de Valdemar Finca Alto Cantabria ($30), made from a single vineyard of 50-year-old vines of Viura, with aromas of wax, pear, and honeysuckle, and on the palate warm citrus notes, a lovely rainwater texture, and a chalky, salty finish. If you want something with a little more age (and a step up in price) you can't do better than the classic Lopez de Heredia Vina Gravonia ($45), with 2016 being the most recent release.
With a lighter, flakier white fish, I'm going off the beaten path again, and suggesting a zingy orange wine. For that, I'm going back to Andalusia to recommend another unique wine by Raul Moreno: 2022 Raul Moreno La Retahila ($41). A skin-contact white, aged under flor (like fino sherry), it's made from 100-year-old vines of Perruno, a lost grape of Andalusia, whose name means "dirty dog". It drinks more like an aromatic white from Alsace or Germany, with complex peachy, nutty, and spicy notes.
BEEF
"Steak" can take numerous forms, so let's think in terms of thinner cuts, like flank and skirt steak, and thicker, bone-in cuts, like ribeye, porterhouse, and T-bone.
For skirt or flank, I always open my favorite Tuesday night wine: Cabernet Franc from Chinon in the Loire Valley. The savory grilled tomato, black olive, tobacco, and spice notes of Chinon are a perfect complement to the perfectly crusted, thin medium-rare steak. Try 2022 Bernard Baudry "Les Granges" Chinon or 2022 Olga Raffault "La Fraich" Chinon.
For something like ribeye on the grill, splurge for a Barolo. But hey, it's grilling season, and the vibe is not that fancy. So I'll often opt for a young Langhe Nebbiolo. For $20 to $25, I'll get something that's got enough acidity and tannins to stand up to the fat of the steak, and the earthiness and edge to meld with the fleshy savoriness. Two easy-to-find standbys for me are Damilano "Marghe" Langhe Nebbiolo ($25), with a savory, herbal nose of fresh-cut flower stem, sage, dill, and a hint of rose, and juicy red fruit and silky tannins, or Vietti "Perbacco" Langhe Nebbiolo ($25), a classic "baby Barolo" with mint, violet, and dried rose on the nose; juicy cherry, racy acidity on the palate; and a long chalky finish.
BURGERS & DOGS
Once we get deeper into grilling season (i.e. summer), it's best not to overthink things. Throw some burgers and dogs on the grill, and pop open a couple liters of something chilled and red. Everyone loves burgers, everyone loves a liter, and I have two excellent recommendations.
First isErcole Barbera del Monferrato, which I buy in my local store for around $15. It's made by a small, independent co-op in Piedmont from 30- to 50-year-old barbera vines (with most of the growers certified organic), and fermented and aged in concrete. This is the kind of wine that makes me think: If I don't like this, do I really like drinking wine?
Ampeleia Unlitro, a Tuscan red from coastal Maremma that's a rather non-Tuscan blend of grenache, carignan, mourvedre, sangiovese, and alicante bouschet, aged six months in cement. Bright, popping, a slight tingle of near effervescence, with tart cherry with an underlying earthiness, and a touch of natty in the very best way. It's made on an estate owned by Elisabetta Foradori, one of Italy's legendary low-intervention, biodynamic producers.
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Grilling season is on. Share your favs.
I loved using an outdoor grill - always had one beside whatever home I owned. I would grill steaks, chops, hot dogs, hamburgers and vegetables. I don't remember if I ever did chicken but I don't think I ever did fish.
Fish grills very well if you know what you’re doing. I do more smoking these days though. Smoked Salmon and Whitefish is really good
I grilled Branzino this weekend. I grill them whole, stuffed with lemon wedges, fresh oregano, and rosemary. One whole fish is a single large serving.
At my lakeside chalet I would pan-fry the bass that I had caught and fileted. Cooking any other fish was my wife's job.
Fresh caught?
As kids we envied those who lived in the suburbs and had big yards with grills and/or pools. Naturally, it was the first order of business when I owned my own place ouside the city.
I would grill steaks, chops, hot dogs, hamburgers and vegetables.
All of the above plus the all-important spicey hot sausages.
I don't remember if I ever did chicken but I don't think I ever did fish.
I can say for a fact I never did that.
Nice, Bass is good as long as they aren’t those large, old lunkers. Those are best hanging on a wall
I never caught a huge bass - usually they were keeper size (10") up to as much as 16".
Good eating
Brats:
Brat are a time honored tradition in the Midwest. The best brats I’ve had by far are Sheboygan brats. Sold by Glens Markets now.
They’ll ship them to you in dry ice refrigerated cases. Very good brats.
barbecued chicken and beef skewers with onions, green peppers and mushrooms.
shishkabob
Excellent. I have a pellet smoker and I like to smoke those. Add a garlic clove or twelve in there ….
Did you have a traditional smoker before?
Yeah I had an electric one I basically burned to a crisp. The pellet grill is better in some ways. Mainly more hands free
Mines a couple years old but basically this model.
The sear station is great for reverse searing. Get some of that nice smoked bark on there.
Nan.. that's all to fancy..just a bit of wire and a couple of rocks or bricks is all you need..
Geez I am getting hungry now..
Right? Putting some kielbasa on the grill right now.
Some what?
Ah but don’t knock it until you have tried it. Low and slow smoked meats and veggies are like manna from heaven.
Nothing better ….
It’s basically a beef or pork sausage with a bunch of garlic and spices mixed in. Very tasty.
That is commonly referred to as gourmet snags here..
Get beef, pork and chook (chicken).
I have also seen croc, roo and emu but think I would pass on them..
Interesting. Much of the USA’s sausage varieties came across on the boats through Ellis Island with immigrants in the early 1900’s. Polish, Italian, German, Slavic etc.
I prefer the beef same with frankfurters. If I'm doing pork it's brats or Italian sausage.
Huge polish influence in Hamtramck down in Detroit. Detroit was quite the melting pot back in the day.
Hot Dogs:
Kowalski natural casing wieners.
I’m telling ya. For a hot dog these things are amazing
It's always grilling season down here brother.
Thick cut ribeyes with roasted potatoes and corn. Served with a shallot and mushroom wine sauce.
Here as well except 4-5 months a year you don’t need much ice in your cooking Gin and Tonic
Oh and our sweet corn here is …. Well …. Amazing. If you ever get near a town named Traverse City this time of year through August seek out Halls corn.
Best I’ve ever had
Summer corn is great and watermelon for dessert
I did my first corn on the grill a week ago, juicy and sweet.
Morning...at last a sane topic..
Scotch fillet steak or T bone, snags (sausages), kebabs and seafood..all chucked on the Barbie out in the bush..
Absolute heaven..
lol …. As I would expect
That stuff is getting so expensive I don’t grill it as much but my fav heavy meat is probably a nice pork loin. Smoke it low and slow with fresh corn and asparagus. 225 degrees F if I have time, to 140 F internal. Let it rest for a half hour or so to get to 145-150 and enjoy
Tonight I roasted bone-in pork loin with a nice St. Louis pork rub on the grill. It comes off much juicier than loin chops.
Hmmm I could have called in to see you on the way to dropping into charger and free loading...
All this food made me hungry..just having morning smoko (morning tea)..what a let down..sob..
A packet cappuccino and a lamington.. great Aussie tradition...sponge cake dipped in chocolate and coconut..
Yesterday we had my birthday grilling. Big thick ribeyes and a lobster tail, sweet potatoes and cold beer! Grill with my neighbors year round but almost every week in the summer. .
Happy birthday!
thanks, I had a goodtime and when I totaled them up I got well over a beer a year for presents.
Nice, I scored some Yuengling long necks from a friend visiting from Kentucky.
Nothing special but we can’t get it here in Michigan so it’s a treat.
Yuengling in long necks is good beer
One of fav cheap beers, right along with PBR longnecks.
Something about an ice cold, cheap longneck beer ….
Happy birthday charger..
Hope you had a great day..geez if I had of known that was on the menu I would have been on the first plane over...
I am sure you wouldn't have minded and Aussie free loader..🐨🐨
You would had a good time and been full, thanks
Happy Birthday Charger.
thanks
Happy belated!
thanks, and because I had to pick up somethings near there, I went to Wood Grill buffet this evening. I am really full.
I can never seem to find a time to go there that it's not crazy busy.
Happy Birthday, Tomahawks for dinner.
Oh man, that is quite a birthday meal
Fish:
Not much better on the grill than fresh caught fish. We are blessed in the Great Lakes area with a fantastic fishery.
My fav fresh Great Lakes fish is walleye, then Perch and Bluegill.
Trout comes in a close second with Brooke, Browns, Lake and Steelhead.
Never really grilled or smoked fish. My missus isn't big on seafood. I am however always down for a fresh fish fry on the river bank or at the lake.