You Need to Visit This Chicago Neighborhood for Murals, a Mexican Art Museum, and the Best Carnitas Tacos
By: Kelsey Schagemann (Midwest Living)
S E E D E D C O N T E N T
Vibrant murals cover the buildings on West Cullerton Street in Chicago's Pilsen neighborhood. Credit: Bob Stefko
The aroma of meat and maize wafts over 18th Street in Pilsen. Bright murals splashed across buildings tell the story of the neighborhood's Mexican American heritage. On Chicago's Lower West Side, Pilsen thrums with an eclectic mix of art galleries, bodegas, resale shops, family-owned restaurants, and—more recently—hipster breweries and upscale eateries.
Luis Tubens, wearing a jaunty hat and gesturing enthusiastically, is taking a group of visitors on a mural tour. A local resident, poet, and former arts educator, Tubens is also cofounder of Pilsen Public Art Tours . He highlights several of the neighborhood's 200 murals, pointing out oft-missed details. One mural covers a three-story house like wrapping paper; a giant arm reaches toward a painted red sky. While many of the murals are commissioned by businesses, Tubens says, this artist, Hector Duarte, lives and works in the building. The house's pitched roof and narrow footprint reveals the architectural preferences of the working-class Eastern European immigrants who settled Pilsen in the 1870s.
History and energy are alive here, and you can see and feel them everywhere and in everyone, including the chatty street vendors and the man chopping meat at Carnitas Uruapan, serving pork that's hot and golden—a work of art in its own right.
Here's how Luis Tubens recommends spending time in Pilsen.
Where to Eat
At Carnitas Uruapan, order carnitas and a side of chicharron (crispy fried pork rinds). Credit: Bob Stefko
The tacos from Taqueria El Milagro are always fresh because it's also a tortilla factory. For classic hot dogs, you have to go to Memo's , a family-owned business and neighborhood favorite for generations. People love Carnitas Uruapan for their famous shredded pork, which you can order by the pound or in a taco. And don't forget a concha from Panaderia Nuevo Leon , a traditional self-serve bakery that makes pan dulce from scratch daily. The Jibarito Stop is a delicious Puerto Rican restaurant known for jibaritos—picture a steak sandwich with fried plantains instead of bread. Due to a recent fire in the building, the Jibarito Stop is temporarily closed for repairs.
Where to Drink
Around for more than 20 years, Cafe Jumping Bean is a Pilsen staple for coffee and breakfast. Credit: Choose Chicago
The Giant Penny Whistle is a newer place with a younger crowd. Inspired by neighborhood dive bars, the venue offers live music in a relaxed atmosphere with a dance floor and pool table. DJs play a mix of funk, soul, house, and Latin music. A neighborhood staple since 1994, Cafe Jumping Bean is the classic spot to enjoy coffee or breakfast in a colorful space decorated with local art.
Where to Shop
Named after the Aztec Mother Goddess, Tonantzin Gallery Shop celebrates Mexican artisan culture. Credit: Courtesy of Tonantzin Gallery Shop
For an amazing selection of throwback clothing items, furniture, and home goods, check out Pilsen Vintage . With a full calendar of events and new inventory every week, the shop promises a fun experience and fresh finds. Tonantzin —named after the Aztec Mother Goddess—is a little gift shop celebrating Mexican artisan culture with a selection of paintings, jewelry, books, and more. There's also Mestiza , which offers a mix of traditional and modern artisan goods sourced directly from local makers and Mexico.
Where to Find Art
Explore one of the largest collections of Mexican art in the country at the free National Museum of Mexican Art. Credit: Bob Stefko
The always-free National Museum of Mexican Art houses one of the largest collections of Mexican art in the country. Along with more than 22,000 works from ancient Mexico to the present, the museum offers performances, concerts, and an annual Día de Muertos exhibition. Many outdoor festivals also take place in Pilsen. Each summer, Fiesta del Sol brings live music, food vendors, carnival rides, and art expos to Cermak Road. And, of course, you should take a guided tour (with Luis Tubens!) of Pilsen's murals through Pilsen Public Art Tours .
Meet Luis Tubens
As cofounder of Pilsen Public Art Tours , Luis Tubens has given thousands of tours of the vibrant murals in Chicago's Pilsen neighborhood. For 10 years, he worked as an art educator at the National Museum of Mexican Art. He also studied under legendary muralist José Guerrero.
Kelsey Schagemann is a writer whose articles for Midwest Living typically focus on the vibrant people and places shaping the Chicagoland region. In addition to travel content, Kelsey specializes in feature articles for higher education clients across the country.
:max_bytes(150000):strip_icc():format(webp)/Kelsey_Schagemann_004_Websize-27050a5c00634122b8ba34e53e068532.jpg)
Remember the Golden Rule, be a good human. We're here to relax and chat, so let's keep it civil and fun. Please, remember to quote the person(s) you are replying to as a courtesy so everyone can follow the conversation. Grossly derogatory comments, blatantly inflammatory comments, excessive trolling, mean-spirited taunting and insults, scamming, spamming, and off topic comments may be removed in compliance with the site's Terms of Service and the Code of Conduct. The moderators have the final word and may remove comments at their judgement (or lack thereof).
Past performance does not guarantee future results. Comment at your own discretion. The owners of the site, the owner of this group, and the moderators are not responsible or liable for any stupid thing you do. You break it, you buy it. No shirt, no shoes, no service. Don't poke the bear. Mind the gap.
Tags
Who is online
130 visitors
Something to see & do the next time your in Chi-town.
Chicago has one of the largest, if not the largest, Mexican American populations of any northern city.